Car Ignition Key Stuck
August 31, 2006 | 1 Comment
If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!
Have you ever experienced a situation when you park your car then you switch off the ignition key then the engine stops but you can’t take out the ignition key from the ignition switch.
You can consider those ignition switch lock cylinders, door and trunk cylinders are all complicated devices. You should lubricate them with small amount of lubricant such as WD 40. The lubricant will help to prevent those tiny pins in the lock from binding.
When you can’t remove or insert the key, this means that the lock cylinder are jammed (from lack of lubricant) or are already broken. If you feel something is not right with the lock, lubricate the lock immediately. If this doesn’t solve the problem, replace the lock assembly.
On most of the cars, when you turn the ignition switch counter-clockwise to turn off the engine. If you force just a little harder counter-clockwise again, you might find another switch position. It is used to play radio without electrical current supplied to the ignition system. When the lock cylinders are already worn, the cylinders lose the resistance at the stop position. It will be easy for the key to slip past a certain position where it is unable to remove the key. If this happen, try turning the key slghtly clockwise while pulling the key. If still you can’t remove the key, just replace with a new ignition lock cylinder.
Another method is try to pull using a plier. Grasp the key with the plier and pull straight and be careful not to twist the key and break off the top. Try push in the key slightly and pull it out gently.
In order to prevent this problem from happening, remember to lubricate the cylinder and also don’t try to use the car key to open can lids or to cut the paper package. This is because car keys are mostly made of brass which is soft material and they are easy to break or bend.
Tag:car maintenance, car repair, cars, ignition key cylinder, ignition switch lock cylinders jammed, Repair and MaintenancePopularity: 8% [?]
The Engine Runs But The Car Doesn’t Move
August 30, 2006 | Leave a Comment
This problem refers mainly to the manual transmission car. When you start the engine, depress the clutch pedal and shift into gear and when you release the clutch, the car still not moving. No matter how hard you depress the acceleration pedal, you only hear the engine runs faster but still the car doesn’t move.
If the transmission fluid is at low level, generally it will not cause the transmission to malfunction. The car will still be able to move forward or reverse but if the keep on running without sufficient fluid, serious damage could occur.
You could try to solve this problem by doing the following. If the car won’t move forward, try to shift the gear to reverse. If the car manage to move in normal way, try to shift forward again. If this is successful, the problem might be the transmission linkage or the transmission itself. A worn transmission linkage could prevent you to shift to the first gear. Try to shift straight to the second gear instead of the first gear just in case the first gear is not working.
If shifting gear doesn’t solve the problem, the culprit will most likely be the clutch. Clutch adjustment will help temporarily but replacing the clutch is the answer. Better replace the clutch ASAP because the car might not be able to move again at the next stop.
Another method to solve this problem is try to switch off the engine. If you manage to shift the gear easily, you’ll need a new clutch. But if the clutch moves too easily, you might have a broken clutch-pedal linkage.
Cars with hydraulic clutches, the loss of fluid in the clutch master cylinder can cause problems. The first sign of a fluid loss on a manual transmission is normally noise from the transmission. Make sure you check the level for the trasmission fluid is enough everytime you service your car.
Check the owner’s manual or by locating the brake master cylinder to see whether your car is with hydraulic clutch. Generally you’ll find similar looking cylinder next to the brake master cylinder. The one on the left is the clutch master cylinder and it controls the clutch. Below are typically how clutch master cylinder looks like.
Tag:accelaration slipping, automobile, automotive, car repair, cars, clutch, clutch master cylinder faulty, clutch plate faulty, maintenance, Repair and Maintenance, worn transmission linkagePopularity: 3% [?]
Starter Cranks Slowly, Car Won’t Start
August 28, 2006 | 2 Comments
When you try to start the engine, the starter cranks but you hear the starter turn slowly instead of high speed rotating sound. The engine might stop and grunt. If you’re lucky the engine might be able to start as usual.
Most probably the problem lies with the starter motor because it doesn’t turn fast enough to start the engine.
If prior to turning off the engine, the engine could be start earlier and has been running for some time, the problem might be related to worn starter motor. Normally if you let the engine to fully cool off, it could be started normally again. If you’re not sure what cause the problem, ask the mechanic to check the battery, the starter motor and also the charging system.
Another reason could be the battery is weak because both problem could give similar sound. Try to jump the car from another car battery, which could allow the faulty starter to turn fast enough to start the engine. Check the current reading to the battery before replacing the battery. The starter motor could be the culprit.
If you have tried the above procedure but still the starter motor runs too slow to start the engine, the problem might be the engine or advanced timing. Poor engine timing could cause the starter motor to malfunction.
Another cause could be just with the battery cables connection. Poor connection will increase the resistance between the battery and the starter hence will reduce the current flow to the battery. Make sure the connections are tight and clean.
Sometimes it’s not wise to assume that if the battery is too weak to start the engine, replacing the battery alone could solve the problem. It could be the alternator belt itself is loose.
Tag:car maintenance, car repair, cars, charging system problem, flat battery, poor engine timing, Repair and Maintenance, starter motor, worn starter motorPopularity: 3% [?]
2006 Honda Civic Hybrid
August 27, 2006 | Leave a Comment
The Honda Civic Hybrid will be more powerful and sophisticated with improved fuel consumption and low exhaust emissions.
The hybrid is powered by a 110 hp 4-cylinder petrol engine with i-VTEC (intelligent variable valve timing and lift electronic control) technology. This technology increases the engine’s power and efficiency.
Power is provided by the 15 kilowatt electric motor/generator and runs off a battery pack that recharges itself from energy dissipated while coasting or braking. The performance and efficiency of the hybrid is almost similar to that of a 5 speed manual transmission, which is not available anymore on Civic Hybrid.
Honda’s Integrated Motor Assist (IMA) system runs on electric power under certain condition, typically at moderate cruising speed to conserve petrol. The technology is still differ from Toyota’s hybrid system found in Toyota Prius, which runs fully on electric motor from standstill to low speeds.
The IMA system provides acceleration on par with 1.8 litre petrol powered Honda Civic. But in order to get the speed, the pedal have to be put all the way to the floor.
The Civic Hybrid looks almost identical to the conventional petrol-powered sedan. A new cab-forward design, which pushes the passenger compartment as far to the front of the vehicle as possible, features bolder front-end styling with a steeply raked windshield and sweeping roofline.
Inside, a two-tiered instrument panel comes with a digital speedometer, fuel gauge and IMA readout at the top of the dashboard, conveniently in the driver’s line of sight. The tachometer and other gauges are installed in a lower tier behind the tilting and telescoping steering wheel.
The Hybrid’s interior treatment includes exclusive two-tone seating. The trunk space is minimally compromised to accommodate the hybrid system’s battery pack.
Popularity: 4% [?]
Car Won’t Start Even With Normal Starter Sound And Warm Engine
August 25, 2006 | Leave a Comment
When you try to start your car on warm engine and the starter cranks the engine with normal starter sound, but the car still won’t start. The first thing you do is make sure you have enough fuel in your car. If the fuel runs out, definitely the car won’t start.
Another possible reason would be too rich fuel mixture caused by the carburetor or fuel injection problem. To start the car you need the fuel and ignition to be delivered at a precise moment.
Other causes could be worn spark plugs or other defects with the ignition system. If the electrical current is not delivered to the ignition system, the engine will not start too.
Besides that if the fuel doesn’t delivered to the cylinders, the engine will not start.
Other possible cause is that the timing belt or chain or the timing adjustment is faulty, the car will not start too.
To solve this problem, for carburetor engine, press the acceleration pedal to the floor and turn the ignition key to start to crank the engine. Try for 1 or 2 minute. Do not use this method on a fuel-injected engines. Allow the engine to cool down for few hours and try to start again. At the same time check the owner’s manual to check the correct starting procedure.
If the above method doesn’t work, check the spark plugs whether electrical current available to create a spark. Remove the wire from one of the spark plug and stick a screwdriver into the end of the wire. Remember not to hold the metal part. Make sure the handle is insulated.
The voltage generated could exceed 30,000 Volt. Arrange the screwdriver so that it is 1/4″ away from the metal part of the engine. Ask someone to crank the engine. A bright blue spark should be visible between the screwdriver and the metal part of the engine. If there are sparks for each spark plug cables, most likely the problem is related with the fuel.
Tag:car maintenance, car repair, cars, flat battery, ignition system faulty, poor engine timing, Repair and Maintenance, rich air fuel mixture, spark plug faulty, starter motor, timing beltPopularity: 3% [?]
LMG Tourer and Trekker Specs
August 25, 2006 | 4 Comments
LMG Tourer is a 7 seater SUV which is more likely to be based similar to the Trekker. It is weight at 2,285 kg. It runs with a 2.4 litre inline-4 SOHC engine which produces 124 hp at 5,250 rpm and 190 Nm of torque at 3,000 rpm.
The car feautures dual airbags, leather seats, CD player and ABS suspension. The suspension at the front is double cross arm torsion bar spring whereas variable rigidity assymetric leaf spring at the rear.
It uses disc brake at the front and drum at the rear. It comes with 15″ alloy wheel wrapped with 215/70/R15 at the front tyres and 225/75/R15 at the rear tyres. As of now it comes only with a 5 speed manual transmission.
More pitures of the Tourer below. The pictures and details are from one of my favourite blog, Paul Tan’s.
The specs of the Trekker are the same as the Tourer except it’s heavier at 2,386 kg. it also comes with LMG Hydroxene Technology. Below are more pics of the Trekker I’ve taken from Paul Tan’s blog.
Popularity: 3% [?]
Hydrogen Powered Car From Malaysia
August 24, 2006 | 5 Comments
One will relate hydrogen to the Hindenburg tragedy or even to the H-Bomb but with the new technology that we have nowadays, hydrogen is more beneficial than what it’s believe to be.
Hydrogen is a renewable energy source, non polluting and it can be obtained easily by breaking down water into 2 parts of hydrogen molecules and 1 part of oxygen molecule as shown below.
2H2O -> 2H2 + O2
So why do we adapt too slow to make hydrogen as a mainstream fuel source? Is it because of politics? If you compare the price of a hybrid car to a conventional car, the former is way too expensive.
From the formula above we don’t really need advance technology to produce a hydrogen powered car. Check out waterpoweredcar.com and you can find that the car runs with 100 % water. Check out the conspiracy theory of water powered car from the site.
Tag:cars, hybrid, News update, suvPopularity: 6% [?]
Choosing A Car For Modification Tips
August 22, 2006 | 1 Comment
To mod or not to mod, that is the decision you need consider before you want to start any modification. You need to determine what is the purpose of the modification and you can do this by assigning the purpose in percentage.
If you intend to use it as a weekend track car, you might want to assign the percentage as below:
- Commuting to work: 100 % Since the car is the only car for you to get to work and it the car breakdown, you won’t be able to go to work.
- Weekend track use: 50 % It’s likely that you’re going to use the car for track use every weekend.
- Running errands: 30 % If you’re married and you have 2 cars, you split running errands doing your chores) on the weekend between 2 cars and in average maybe you use your car 3 out of 10 times.
- Client meetings/business: 15 %
- Your spouse’s use: 25 %
With the exercise above you could prioritize which car suit the purpose and with that you could anticipate what type of car you should buy.
You could also plan what modification you’re going to proceed with. If for example you need the car to bring your client most of the time and you only go to the track once in 10 weekend, it will be foolish to install a roll bar to make the car better suited for track usage.
Planning ahead is critical and often overlooked when it comes to car modification. If you have enough budget to buy different car for different task, then you could just modified your car as you like. But most people have only one car to do all the roles above hence they should plan what part they could modified and what part they should not.
Tag:cars, modification tips, modified cars, tipsPopularity: 3% [?]
Peugeot 908 RC Concept 2006
August 22, 2006 | 1 Comment
Peugeot’s V12 HDi DPFS (Diesel Particulate Filter System) diesel engine powered the 908 RC Concept. The capacity of the engine is 5.5 litres with a maximum output of more than 700 bhp and 885 lb-ft of torque. The engine is arranged at the central transverse position with a 100 degree V angle architecture, and this contribute to the lowest possible centre of gravity.
The original idea when they were creating the car was to have a limousine that could offer its four occupants a new driving sensation but the end results however were more than they expected.
From the rsportscars website:
The original idea was to create a limousine with an imposing style that offered its four occupants a new driving sensation. The final design, however, is an uncompromising car that combines dynamic performance, comfort, luxury and environmental protection. In short, it is an exclusive four-door vehicle that will capture the imagination of both occupants and onlookers.
To read more click here.
Tag:cars, concept cars, News update, peugeot, peugeot 908 rc concept 2006, sports carPopularity: 7% [?]
